Removing paints from plastic Miniatures

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iIbigdaddyIi
iIbigdaddyIi's picture
Removing paints from plastic Miniatures

Okay, I'm starting to regret using the Ultramarines Color scheme, and I want to make my own chapter (cause its cooler if you make your own) anyways so yeah, any tips on how I can remove the paint? Adding another layer of new paint in them will just make the details look crap, so yeah I have to literally remove the paint.

If you guys have any tips, as always I would appreciate it.

deone67
deone67's picture

i think in ace hardware they sell some paint removers try to check there

nameflow
nameflow's picture

for metals use a conventional Cuticle Remover from the health and beauty  corner in any carrefour.

for plastics u can use Pine Sol (all around cleaner - blue one is better than the other colors but green would do the trick too).... juz soak your plastic mini for at least a couple of hours (but overnight will be juz fine) and then brush the paint away with your conventional toothbrush 

^_^x hope that helped

iIbigdaddyIi
iIbigdaddyIi's picture

nameflow wrote:

for metals use a conventional Cuticle Remover from the health and beauty  corner in any carrefour.

for plastics u can use Pine Sol (all around cleaner - blue one is better than the other colors but green would do the trick too).... juz soak your plastic mini for at least a couple of hours (but overnight will be juz fine) and then brush the paint away with your conventional toothbrush 

^_^x hope that helped

Will that also remove the glue? if I soak it overnight (plastic) and do they sell the pinesole in Carrefour? o,o

Kangor
Kangor's picture

iIbigdaddyIi wrote:

nameflow wrote:

for metals use a conventional Cuticle Remover from the health and beauty  corner in any carrefour.

for plastics u can use Pine Sol (all around cleaner - blue one is better than the other colors but green would do the trick too).... juz soak your plastic mini for at least a couple of hours (but overnight will be juz fine) and then brush the paint away with your conventional toothbrush 

^_^x hope that helped

Will that also remove the glue? if I soak it overnight (plastic) and do they sell the pinesole in Carrefour? o,o

ok ok be careful, Pinesol is ok but Simply Green is world reknown paint remover. It wont remove the glue or the primer.

Coat models with either liquid completely. Let them stand for 1 day. Take an old tooth brush and scrub them vigorousely(sp) and them put them in the liquid again for another day. Repeat scrub but this time strain all the particles out of the old liguid or toss and put new liquid completely over models. Repeat process till you are satisfied with the model. Most times it will take about a week, but since yours are newly painted it should be quicker.

nameflow
nameflow's picture

Kangor wrote:

ok ok be careful, Pinesol is ok but Simply Green is world reknown paint remover. It wont remove the glue or the primer.

Coat models with either liquid completely. Let them stand for 1 day. Take an old tooth brush and scrub them vigorousely(sp) and them put them in the liquid again for another day. Repeat scrub but this time strain all the particles out of the old liguid or toss and put new liquid completely over models. Repeat process till you are satisfied with the model. Most times it will take about a week, but since yours are newly painted it should be quicker.

 

True! Simply Green is an awesome paint remover.... BUT its almost hard to find or out of stock most of the times so PineSol was my substitute, and the results are no different either ^_^x juz follow what Kangor said and you'll be juz fine.

and juz an FYI i did soaked a couple bunch of minis in a PineSol/water solution (70:30) for more than 2 weeks.... yes yes i was busy....and it still intact and no deformities. the urban legend of "it would make your models warp" has been myth busted. well maybe other factors may affect the outcome, like room temp. water/solution ratio, etc. nevertheless be careful and i do not recommend leaving ur minis soaked for too long.

burning_phoneix
burning_phoneix's picture

I usually use Dettol cleaner but Pinesol/Simply Green works as well.

noxy
noxy's picture

As others have mentioned, you can get Simple Green from Ace Hardware and it's the best out there.

iIbigdaddyIi
iIbigdaddyIi's picture

noxy wrote:

As others have mentioned, you can get Simple Green from Ace Hardware and it's the best out there.

SImple green... I'll note that one thanks :D sorry for the repetitive question >.<

Kangor
Kangor's picture

FYI I just used Simple Green on two test models for a timed experiment.
Greater Daemon of Slannesh with about 3 different layers of paint, all metal model
Space Marine Terminator with little kid glop paint job from Bandits flea market :), all plastic

Both models where placed in a disposable plastic party cup with about 6 ounces of Simple Green and let sit for 4 hours, the cup and model where swirled around and let sit 2 more hour. At the 6. Hour mark both models were scooped out and cleaned with the solution and toothbrush. At this point all paint and most primer on the metal model just slid right off with minimal brushing, while the plastic model color paint started to come off with scrubbing, but the primer stayed perfect. Now this could be that the metal daemon used old GW primer from 10 years ago, but I bid prime directly over one of the past paint layers and that came right away.
Both models were put back into the same cup to soak again for another 2 hours. At this point the metal model came out 99% stripped and the plastic model require an additional 2 hours. Overall this was completed in about 8-10 hours. I rinsed each with warm water and cleaned with brush and they primed just like new. They have both been painted and the paint cured without any issue.

In closing, neither model where damaged by the stripping and both took the primer with no adversity. The plastic cup used which was super thin, never warmed or softened. I still have some terminators in the same solution for about 3 weeks now due to being lazy and they are perfectly fine. Simple green is just a name brand. Look for the ingredients and use you preferred brand based on that. As a side note a more dramatic way of cleaning metal models is run em through the dishwasher. This is unknown to me, but I've had 2-3 people tell me it works pretty good, but it may color the inside of the machine....good luck and I hope this helps.

iIbigdaddyIi
iIbigdaddyIi's picture

Awesome! thanks for the detailed explanation. Really helps a lot~ :D

Karlan
Karlan's picture

2 more options that I've tried and don't melt plastic  :

 

1. Mr. Muscle ; Easy Oven cleaner  ( off the shelf at any Spinney's )

 

Place the victims in a jar , spray foam inside and leave for 3-4 hours ( best over night ) . Scrub with a toothbrush under the tap while wearing gloves as the checmicals are harmful to the skin .

 

2. Brake Fluid ( around 14 AED from any Petrol Station ) -  Recommended if you're not satisfied with other methods or your paint is specaily stubborn 

 

Place the plastic dudes men in a jar and submerge in brake fluid . Leave for 3-4 hours and see if you're satisfied or over night if you wish . Pour fluid from the jar back in to the bottle and use the toothbrush to get the paint off ( pulls of easily in most cases ) however would reocmmend you soak them in soapy water to remove the oily smell . You can re-use the break fluid many more times , just keep pouring it back in to the container everytime you're done . If you do want to get rid of it then take it to the gas station again so that they can dispose of it safely as the fluid is not enviormentaly friendly.

iIbigdaddyIi
iIbigdaddyIi's picture

Karlan wrote:

2 more options that I've tried and don't melt plastic  :

 

1. Mr. Muscle ; Easy Oven cleaner  ( off the shelf at any Spinney's )

 

Place the victims in a jar , spray foam inside and leave for 3-4 hours ( best over night ) . Scrub with a toothbrush under the tap while wearing gloves as the checmicals are harmful to the skin .

 

2. Brake Fluid ( around 14 AED from any Petrol Station ) -  Recommended if you're not satisfied with other methods or your paint is specaily stubborn 

 

Place the plastic dudes men in a jar and submerge in brake fluid . Leave for 3-4 hours and see if you're satisfied or over night if you wish . Pour fluid from the jar back in to the bottle and use the toothbrush to get the paint off ( pulls of easily in most cases ) however would reocmmend you soak them in soapy water to remove the oily smell . You can re-use the break fluid many more times , just keep pouring it back in to the container everytime you're done . If you do want to get rid of it then take it to the gas station again so that they can dispose of it safely as the fluid is not enviormentaly friendly.

Another awesome suggestion :D thanks~

Kangor
Kangor's picture

Here is a simple picture of what a bucket of Simple Green Looks like.

I have a full army inside this bucket, about 70 models, and they have already started to strip after 15 minutes.

 

I cant wait for the new Necron Codex to come next month...and now I will have a brand new painted army, all for the price of a bottle of Simple Green, old toothbrush, bucket, and new Codex!

iIbigdaddyIi
iIbigdaddyIi's picture

awesome! thanks for uploading a sample pic kangor! now am really gonna buy one XD

Kangor
Kangor's picture

Ok I wanted to give an update to help you all. I was called away for work for almost 3 weeks right after starting a strip bath using my Necrons. Here is my account when I returned,

1. All models stripped but those not 100% covered were harder to brush, and this was due to evaporation. I didn't put a lid on my bucket even with cool weather I lost about and inch in the bucket and yes plastic models float...maybe add a weight next time.
2. Oldest models stripped to bare metal including primer and shiny pewter patina. 3 weeks is long enough. But plastic was fine even the delicate neuron legs and guns.
3. Crappy glue will dissolve also, this can be good or bad, in my case good.
4. Metallic, especially dry usher colors had actually dissolved and needed no brushing. In the case of the old Necrons it strangely just left colored power cables and scorpion green eyes on a pewter model...weird.
4. Hawk turquoise and scorpion green required a lot of scrubbing...odd!
5. In the case where primer was stripped or bubbled you really need to scruss otherwise you are left with a rough model. I recommend 2 types of tooth brush one normal and one with those gum massagers built in.
6. Use doctors latex gloves not dish washing gloves since you need the touch, but don't use bare hands or you will regret it.
7. Wash models warm water and let dry, but give light scrub in water to get hanger ons broken free
8. Walla now paint your new army!

iIbigdaddyIi
iIbigdaddyIi's picture

Kangor wrote:
Ok I wanted to give an update to help you all. I was called away for work for almost 3 weeks right after starting a strip bath using my Necrons. Here is my account when I returned, 1. All models stripped but those not 100% covered were harder to brush, and this was due to evaporation. I didn't put a lid on my bucket even with cool weather I lost about and inch in the bucket and yes plastic models float...maybe add a weight next time. 2. Oldest models stripped to bare metal including primer and shiny pewter patina. 3 weeks is long enough. But plastic was fine even the delicate neuron legs and guns. 3. Crappy glue will dissolve also, this can be good or bad, in my case good. 4. Metallic, especially dry usher colors had actually dissolved and needed no brushing. In the case of the old Necrons it strangely just left colored power cables and scorpion green eyes on a pewter model...weird. 4. Hawk turquoise and scorpion green required a lot of scrubbing...odd! 5. In the case where primer was stripped or bubbled you really need to scruss otherwise you are left with a rough model. I recommend 2 types of tooth brush one normal and one with those gum massagers built in. 6. Use doctors latex gloves not dish washing gloves since you need the touch, but don't use bare hands or you will regret it. 7. Wash models warm water and let dry, but give light scrub in water to get hanger ons broken free 8. Walla now paint your new army!

 

Thanks for the tips again Kangor :3 Really really really helps a lot~ XD

pcc

Kangor: Great tip on using brake fluid. I knew about Mr. Muscle but it only removes the less stubborn coats. Chaos Black Primer is a devil to remove so I'll give the brake fluid a go. Hope it works.

 

Cheers

 

PCC

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